swell

The offshore buoy, as in offshore the Aleutian Islands (it's a big ocean out there, folks, but to a big wave it's right next door), forecast a monster swell for today. It was right, and the swell arrived this morning with 30+ ft waves. A "lei" day was called. Way too big to run a safe (oxymoron) Pipeline Pro competition, but not too big for some good ol' fun for surf rats.

The photo shows a 6 ft surfer dropping into a, what would you say--30 ft wave? Then the wave explodes as it pile-drives him into the reef a foot below the surface. Woohoo...what fun!

Should anyone live long enough to collect the loot, the PipePro prize is $130,000. I know I promised no rainbows, but the end of a bigass one is right out there, fellas.

front row

I brought my sketchbook, 6 canvases, acrylics, 3 brushes, charcoal, a value strip and some red acetate for viewing. I haven't even done as much as a thumbnail, no notans, no nuthin'. I'd like to think I'll produce something, and I will. BUT... 

The computer models are all showing that the biggest swell of the season is coming and will be here by Thursday. The predicted 40-foot waves will guarantee that "The Eddie" will be held in Waimea. Meanwhile, today and tomorrow the Sunset Open is being shown on a live streaming feed for a $10,000 prize. Watch 80 great watermen surf elimination heats. It's also being broadcast on Time Warner so we've got it on the big screen, on the computer, on the iPhone and right off the porch. Front row. Take a look; the feed