swell

The offshore buoy, as in offshore the Aleutian Islands (it's a big ocean out there, folks, but to a big wave it's right next door), forecast a monster swell for today. It was right, and the swell arrived this morning with 30+ ft waves. A "lei" day was called. Way too big to run a safe (oxymoron) Pipeline Pro competition, but not too big for some good ol' fun for surf rats.

The photo shows a 6 ft surfer dropping into a, what would you say--30 ft wave? Then the wave explodes as it pile-drives him into the reef a foot below the surface. Woohoo...what fun!

Should anyone live long enough to collect the loot, the PipePro prize is $130,000. I know I promised no rainbows, but the end of a bigass one is right out there, fellas.