wave

Wave goodbye. 

Aloha.

first wave

I could've painted more in Hawaii, but it seemed superfluous.

Eventually the colors became irresistible, and besides, the humidity kept the acrylics workable for two whole days. Amazing. Here in Colorado, they skin over in less than a half hour. Ironic, since I sat on the porch and watched this

paint itself in no time at all.

the quiksilver

The North Shore of Oahu is getting hammered by 30' to 50' waves today through Thursday or Friday, which means The Quiksilver In Memory Of Eddie Aikau is on! It doesn't happen every year, actually rarely, and only when the monster waves are thundering in. Today's sets seem very promising (can you say HUGE?), and the judge will likely call it a "go". Thirty of the world's best big wave riders are ready and waiting at Waimea. Unfortunately, we won't be at Sunset until 1/15/10. Just as well... the house is full of judges for the Triple Crown, and the waves will be threatening the porch. Yikes! But as the surf rats say, "Eddie would go!"

PFA

They walk down to what they perceive to be the edge of the water. With hands on hips, the People From Away (PFAs) survey their ocean like they own the place. I can see it when what to do next comes to them; their shoulders set. Being human, they must conquer it all over again, because once is never enough. Brave determination sets in, and bending over, they begin to oh so carefully and neatly roll up their cuffs. This calls for a stunning combination of oceanography and fashion sense. Adjustments are made until the cuffs are judged to be dead on perfect.

A wave swells with pride. Irony rules (duh), and the PFAs start running backwards in wet sand. A movement doomed. The Pearl S. Buck Memorial Wave hits dead on perfect before they can stand up again. Come to find out, dry pants don't matter a squat even if they are dead on perfect.

I can't wait

First light to long past twilight, no wave is ever wasted.