big wave tango

The trades have been in irons for the last three days. Hot and humid and still. Last night, storms finally broke them free and the surf began thundering in again. The 30 ft. waves are big enough to shake the house.

Oh yes. This is what we love. The camera and the paint are all set up. Ready o roll. The camera jockey is happy shooting world-class surf jockeys. And painting is a pure pleasure. Problem is, I can't ignore the combination of the surfers out there and the tango playing in my head long enough to paint more than this quick sketch.

Then there's the issue of so many shrimp, so little time...

p.s. Note to self: head should not look like coconut.

right time right place

Life ain't easy, but it always gets you to the right place at the right time.  Being mere mortals, we can't plan it.  It's in the lap of the gods.  Lap dogs.  Heh.  

In spite of that basic truth, I find it to be no small miracle that we got here to Sunset Beach 24 hours ago, and today the rumored return of the most legendary surfing event in history is riding what the National Weather Service is calling a extra large swell from the North Pacific directly toward the North Shore of O'ahu.  If it does indeed arrive here as forecasted on Thursday January 20th, it will mean that The Quiksilver In Memory Of Eddie Aikau will be held two years in a row. That link will take you to my previous post about the Quiksilver, where you can learn more about the contest and the coincidence.  Both are really quite phenomenal.  

Hard to believe, but for once, hyperbole fails me.  Like everyone else here, I'm waiting for the waves.  The moon will be full, the tide will roar up the beach and the surf will be stupendous.

 

and the winner is...

The Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational held yesterday was won by Greg Long. According to all accounts, it was one of the most awesome surfing events of all time. After 25 years, everything came together perfectly to make it a truly legendary tribute to Eddie Aikau. Read the official news report here. If you're lucky enough to have access to FUEL TV, don't miss this special sporting event on Friday, Dec. 11th at 6:30 PT- 9:30 ET.  

the quiksilver

The North Shore of Oahu is getting hammered by 30' to 50' waves today through Thursday or Friday, which means The Quiksilver In Memory Of Eddie Aikau is on! It doesn't happen every year, actually rarely, and only when the monster waves are thundering in. Today's sets seem very promising (can you say HUGE?), and the judge will likely call it a "go". Thirty of the world's best big wave riders are ready and waiting at Waimea. Unfortunately, we won't be at Sunset until 1/15/10. Just as well... the house is full of judges for the Triple Crown, and the waves will be threatening the porch. Yikes! But as the surf rats say, "Eddie would go!"